The Voice of Chaos

2010/01/22

Climbing “The Nose”

Filed under: The Road to The Nose — admin @ 1:32 am

This summer I came face to face with El Capitan. Known as El Cap.

El Cap is 3,000 feet of vertical rock face. It is surrounded by the complete beauty of Yosemite National park. I had never really desired a multi-day climbing experience. Sleeping on a ledge, or a portal-edge. Figuring out the logistics of something as simple as peeing 2,000 feet up with a harness on—just did not appeal to me.

There I was standing face to face with El Cap. I was taken by surprise and in complete awe of its majestic beauty.  All I could think about is how I wanted to climb it. This rock face represents a new personal obsession for me. I am going to climb it. More specifically I am going to climb it before I turn 34. I have stared at it through binoculars and now poured over pages and pages of topos. The route I want to climb is “The Nose”

I am 28 years old and will be 29 this year. 2015 I will be 34 years old.

There is a book called  “The road to the Nose”

It goes into great detail the climbs and training you should do to successfully climb The Nose in a terrify, exhausting, and  satisfy 5 days. The alternative seems to be a terrifying, exhausting,  and frustrating 8 days.

I think I am at the Pre-Road to the Nose stage.

Here is the list of things I need to try and accomplish before the end of 2010 and how I HOPE to accomplish them.

1) The ability to do a day long multi-pitch climb with my climbing partner with no words exchange for the entire day that are not about safety checks and climbing.

  • You might think this is odd but its not. Efficiency is key when you are on a big wall. 10-15 minutes lost to chatter at a belay station can turn into not making your ledge by night fall. It can even add up to an entire extra day —you may not have enough food or water for that extra day.
  • This is a particular challenge for me as the chatter of my mind can at times be to much to handle.
  • The climb can be an easy climb. It can be a sport climb. This is a baby step to a much bigger goal.
  • I am going to spend a week at the Zen center and take up meditation. I need to find a way to calm my own mind and I feel this would be a good start.

2) Lead a 5.10a Successfully after not sleeping for 24 hours.

  • Ok maybe you think this is odd. I do not. I want to practice climbing in a sleep deprived state. I would rather know what I CAN do on little to know sleep then not.
  • When on a Big wall anything could happen. You can not count on a full solid wonderful 8 hours of sleep in a comfy bed. Your skill level should be as such that you with out sleep can still do the very minimal required to get up the wall. I want to know what my body can do on no sleep and how far I can push myself.
  • How I plan to achieve this is picking a day in March to not sleep for 24 hours and then climb. See where I am at. Create a plan from there.

3) Take a wilderness first aid course.

  • Over the next 5 years I want to make sure that I have all the technical skills required to prevent loss of life on the face of El Cap. Things can happen. The better prepared you are for them the better. This year will be basic first aid. Eventually a full self rescue course is what I am after.

4) Lead a 5.9 sport climb outside.

  • I can lead 5.9 in the gym. I can barely climb a 5.9 on top rope outside. This is going to take a lot of practice and a lot of climbing.
  • I plan to climb old routes that I attempted in 2009. Routes I couldn’t do or failed at.
  • This will require a level of strength and fitness found from climbing on a regular schedule.
  • 3 times a week of climbing at the gym is the goal. I like mornings but afternoons work too. As mentioned I Have to learn to climb tired hungry, angry, sick and weak.

5) Bike the penisila 5 days in a row.

  • Endurance on a big wall  is really important. The start of it is going to come from biking. its a fair distance and to get up 5 days straight and do the ride is going to take a lot of dedication and it’s own level of training.
  • To achieve this I plan to do it this twice  in Feb – not in a row. 4 times in March. 5 Times in April. 6 times in May -. 6 Times in June. 6 times in July. 6 times in August. 6 times in September. 8 times in October. November, December will see me experiment with attempting each week 5 times in a row until I get it.
  • The time commitment for February and March is ok – I can bike there on a Saturday  and do school work at SSN all day and train home.  April and May will see me doing this trip at least once on a weekday. I can train home and read course material on the train.
  • June ,July , August, September  are  tricky. I will loose my weekends. This is due to prime climbing season.  This means 1-2 weekdays every week I will be up at 6 am and riding down the peninsula hoping a train and coming home for noon.  Reading on the train.

6) Stronger immune system.

  • I get stressed I get sick. Its pretty much guaranteed. Learning to support my body with healthy eating habits and vitamins has ALWAYS been a challenge.
  • Improving cardiovascular health is shown to improve your immune system.
  • Ensuring you get enough fruits and vegetables in your diet as well as vitamins helps as well.

7) Left knee stabilizers close to balanced with right knee stabilizers.

  • Every time I am at the gym. Warm my knee up. Do exercises I know are strengthening it. Be mindful that what the right can do will at this time injure the left. Give the left time to catch up.

This is for 2010 my baby-steps to The Nose. My personal road  start with over coming some personal issues. Starting to get a better understanding of safety and building up a level of endurance and confidence. These are called stretch goals. They are not easy to obtain and I may miss the mark on a few. My road to The Nose I am sure will be paved with ups and downs, me pushing myself and failing but get up to push again.

Most importantly I want to write this down because its one thing to say I am going to climb El Cap. Its another to start forming a plan and writing about it. I plan to take a long hard look at myself over the next year and find areas I feel need improvement. Areas that will be weaknesses not in my knowledge and personal coping skills and working to improve them.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/El_Capitan

Comp 268

Filed under: Uncategorized — admin @ 12:11 am

So I have completed all but ONE straggling assignment from this term. Its due Feb 1, 2010. Its in the proof read stage.

I completed my 2 final exams today and one project. I decided to take a bit of a break. In this break I decided to read ahead and see what next semester has to offer me.

I really enjoyed Comp200. I almost walked away with a perfect grade. In the end not actually reading the text book—I found all the information I needed for taking practice tests and doing projects on-line— did me in.  I was weak in the area of dial up modems and archaic technology as well as some terminology. My perfect score dropped to just below perfect.

So fresh new semester, fresh new chance at 100%. I read the introduction to Comp268. It was enough to put a bit of fear in me. I looked over the first unit. This is truly A LOT of work. The subject though I am finding fascinating.

The introduction states:

“You do not need to know any programming when starting this course. The materials will take you from zero knowledge. The course content covers internationally accepted curricula for an introductory programming course in computer science, which makes the course very rigorous. You may find it takes longer to complete than many other junior level undergraduate courses. If you have never programmed before, you may wish to consider a more gradual introductory programming course as a stepping stone to this course. There are two examples of such a courses at Athabasca University” <not sure how to reference the location of this in a blog but it comes from the preface of my course, so its written by my instructor>

I read it, I scoff in my usual cocky way when presented with some one saying “it’s a lot of work” —my overconfident nature pokes it’s head out now and then. Sometimes its keeps me out of trouble and sometimes it puts me way over my head—I skip to unit 1.

Unit 1 has 10 learning objectives. Each learning objective has about 15 pages of reading. A lab component and 18 questions.  Unit 1 according to the course should take 1 week to complete. Now do the math: 150 pages of reading, 10 labs, and 180 questions IN ONE WEEK .  There are 14 units in total spread over 20 weeks. Some units are LARGER then unit 1 and take 2 weeks to complete. There are 7 assignments in total and 1 final exam.

I do not want to repeat the same mistake I made with COMP200 and skip the reading. The point of going to school is to learn. This is one of 5 courses I have this semester.

I think I will need to take the study lessons and discipline learned and used during the final half of this semester and apply it from day one of my new semester. Slightly harder to do then you might think—considering I will be moving into a new place.

The life lesson is:

There will always be obstacles and hurdles to overcome in front of what you are trying to achieve. Some will be in your control and some just will not.

Time management has always been a weakness of mine. Like the weak knee I will need to strengthen to climb the nose. This is one skill I will struggle with and work with until it is no longer a weakness but a strength.

2010/01/17

Numb to the world around me Or maybe Practical

Filed under: Life,psyco bable — admin @ 8:18 pm

Sometimes I get very caught up in my own world. When this happens I miss what is happening in the rest of the world. I didn’t know Micheal Jackson had died until days after.  I heard about the earthquake in Haiti only because I heard a tv in a store discussing the aftermath. I was pretty numb to it.

I remember being glued to my tv after the terrorist attacks in New York city. B and D and Q and I all in our apartment in Richmond eating Pizza and watching CNN.

The year that followed, I continued to watch. In fact I never stopped watching. In the hospital day in and day out with my aunt while she battled cancer. I watched the news.  One day the world around me got to be to much. Something broke and I couldn’t take any more. I went an entire year with out picking up a newspaper reading a headline or even watching/listening to the news. It was peaceful. Willful ignorance.  I had thought I would come back after my year hiatus with a fresh new look at the news. The problem is now it just overwhelms me so I tune it out. I liked the peace of not knowing what was going on.

I turn a blind eye to the suffering around me. The collapsing economy of the United States, the struggle Canada faces with its government. A GIANT disaster where over 100,000 people have DIED.

I start to think about it, spend some time learning about it. All I want to do is BE THERE helping. I suddenly have an urge to join the Canadian peace keepers— Something I believed I would do in my life time a long time ago, when I first learned what they were— A need to run off and try and save lives.

I once wanted to save all the puppies and kittens of the world. I realized I could not. If I saved all the puppies and kittens from death – who would feed them. I once wanted to save all the unborn babies that mothers didn’t want. I then realized that there are some conditions to NOT bring a child into the world. I once wanted to save all the horses from the slaughter house. Then I realized that slaughter houses for horses was an entire striving business that fed families and gave us glue and dog food. I once wanted to save all the trees and never cut down a single one. Then I realized it was a growth and harvest cycle, not to mention my family was supported by timber dollars.

I once even tried to save chickens from being slaughtered. Two, a male and a female. The lesson that these chickens were not pets and were food was learned quickly.  A month later the two chickens I saved by chasing into the woods DIED. No reason accept they were purchased as meat chickens they were genetically altered – unable to reproduce and  meant to grow fast and then be eaten. I hope there death was not painful. I know that because of me there death was in vein.

Life continued to try and teach me over and over one simple lesson. You can not save everything and every one. It’s a lesson I sometimes think I want to refuse to learn.

I can not save the lives of the people who are dying right now from the affects an earthquake can have on a location. I can offer support to allow the economy to grow again. I can recognize that  I may not wish to read and be glued to the details of whats happening. I may not wish to see the photos and hear of the death toll daily. It doesn’t mean I do not care. It doesn’t mean I am numb. It means to me that there is one lesson I did learn. I can not help any one until I can help myself.

The time lost to crying over the devastation—yes there are tears if I even start to think about it or bring one image of the devastation to mind— pouring over news articles and trying to come up with ways to help, is wasted when I do it. My time is better spend doing my school work. Educating myself, and finally as I can increasing the amount of money I lend out on Kiva.org. Increasing the amount that I try and help economies regrow after disaster has struck. Even just increasing the amount that I try and contribute to the growth of any economy. Of course if they EVER give me an internship at kiva.org I can also give them my time.

S0 maybe I am not numb—just practical.

2010/01/16

Trigger

Filed under: CPTSD,psyco bable — admin @ 10:20 pm

I have been struggling with a trigger as of late. Why is it when I feel some one is  “off” do I insist on invading there personal space and pushing all in effort to learn what is wrong?

Its a good question – especially because I have made a conscious effort to not do it. Yet I still find myself in an uncontrollable fear around it.

I say uncontrollable because at this point when it happens I feel as though I am watching it occur, taking notes, analyzing myself in hopes of learning where the behavior is coming from.

Last night I had what I call a therapy dream. Its a dream where I feel like I am sitting down with myself and discussing those notes.

To often I forget that Post traumatic stress disorder occurs in some people after a traumatic event. Complex Post traumatic stress disorder just means there was lots of traumatic events.  Not all events have to be related to my childhood.

I try as much as possible to compare and contrast my explosive behavior at an earlier age with my more subtle behavior now.  Understand I do not think all my behavior is just uncontrollable Just some of it.

The flip between anger – out to protect the child like characteristic I have at times. And then finally submission of the  a child. Afraid for its very life.

Why though? Learn why, then learn how to talk to yourself. Is learning why only deluding myself into accepting a bad situation? Who knows. I know I did it once before. I know I deluded myself into becoming something I truly did not want to be with J. Ok so a level of protection and a recognition that while the situation I am responding to could be something that requires a response, the response given is not one in my control. Get it in my control is the goal.The problem is I  must learn to be ME when responding.

Ok so why? Why when I get that feeling, the one I can not shake that something is wrong, why do I push? Why do I lack respect? Why do I not allow my partner to simply BE and come to me when they are ready?

Fear – most things are motivated by fear or insecurity.

Ok time for a story – I am warning you its not pretty and no one likes to hear the things that have occured badly in some ones life. Or maybe you read this because I am like a car wreck and you can not look away.

Most of you know I spent a year with a single goal – break all my personal rules and then make new ones. It never occurred to me that I built those rules to protect myself. In hindsight I think I might have been more selective about the ones I broke – had I thought it through.

This is as a joke known as  “operation remove stick from ass” To me though at times it was the seventh layer of my personal hell.

There was a boy. Isn’t there always a boy.  He was my first broken rule. I was warned about him. His own friend “Krista this man is trouble.” I was naive and then not so much. I wanted trouble. I wanted to break the block that had kept me in a place far to long. I needed to take the link of deep emotion and sex and separate them. In hind sight I really did not need to do that. It would take me so many years to get that link back.

I was drunk. I had never been that drunk in my life. And RARELY since then. We were in the back of his car, in a bar parking lot. Classy I know. I tried to tally up what I had drank – it wasn’t a lot. I would learn over a year later the reason I had such a blotty memory was a small amount of GHB – the first time some one gave me some. Not the last. Does the GHB account for what happens next?  I doubt it. Maybe though. I wanted to rebel. The GHB was an accident – both times I received it was an accident.

***side note: rig workers often give themselves GHB as a way to enhance a drunk at a lower price, I was a chronic stealer of sips of drinks****

I asked for a glass of water. I was so thirsty. I was told there was only one way I was getting out of the car for a glass of water. In my drunken haze the request seemed reasonable. It was what I was after any way. It was a rule I needed to break. I never got the glass of water (I should have realized that). I tried to leave with out his name, with out anything. I never wanted to see him again. I had gotten what I wanted – a way to finally escape myself and my rules. He gave his number to one of my friends, made me promise I would call.

A month later – bored, lonely who knows. I called him. During the rest of my stint in Fairview we would talk weekly. I was still wild and crazy and doing what ever I wanted. My weekly talks with him were normal. He would talk about his work and his family and I would talk about my life before Fairview – never what was happening there.

All sorts of stuff happened – that is for another day another time. But you need to know all of this because of what happens next. Maybe understand why the next part shocked me. Maybe also understand why if I had even been remotely myself – I a. would never have spoke to this boy b. would never have given him the time of day. c. would have never called him again – especially because I never got my glass of water.

On my way back to Vancouver – to start a job. Me my truck and my dog. Just outside of fox creek – BANG and then smoke. A farmer towed me off the road. I was stranded. I called my dad – “I can not help you, you are on your own. Your moms in PG and I am on my way to camp – good luck.” It took me a long time to stop hating him for that.

I called the boy. I didn’t know what else to do – I had his phone number memorized. Why I didn’t call any one else I still do not know. The boy said “meet me in Wataskiwin I will pick you up there, we can get your truck on the weekend.” He was as caring and kind as always.

I got myself to Wataskwin – it was semi uneventful. We had not seen each other since that night in the car. We went back to his hotel room. He was sweet and kind. I told him no. My reasons for saying No are mine and I will keep them to myself, but either way it was not happening.

He went to work in the morning. I proceeded to figure out a way out of my predicament. He returned that night – said a crew mate of his was coming into town and all the girls loved him. He was insecure that I would chase him.  Dinner with his crew mate, turned into drinks, turned into pool. My habit of sipping his drink got me into trouble again – this time he told me why. The night proceeded and I told him NO again. This time he rolled over and refused to talk to me. Not a word to me. The next day he got back from work and said nothing to me just took my stuff removed it from his hotel room and put it in the hallway. I had just spent the day figuring out I could start a job in Lacomb not to far from where we were. I could then be closer to get my truck and my dog.

His crew mate offered me a ride to the bus station. I accepted. It became clear that he was NOT taking me to the bus station and said “Don’t worry I will drive you to Red Deer” My ride to Lacomb was arranged from Red Deer  in the morning.

Ok I said. Noting I clearly was not being given a choice. We drove and talked and then we turned off a highway. I panicked – but I had never been any where in Alberta. the side road become  more desolate by the mile. He stopped the car.

I had imagined what I would do in this situation all my life I had. imagined how I could fight back. I can tell you I did nothing that I thought I would do. I was given two options. One was to be left on the Alberta back road. The other was to comply with his request. Much to my personal shame, and what becomes the product of many night mares to date. I complied.  I analyzed the situation. I decided he was bigger then me, it was cold and dark (March) I was afraid.

The story continues. Of course it does. Bits and pieces of this journey from hell. The journey that just kept getting worse.My memory is spotty at times – clear other times.

Is this the thing I am reliving emotionally when my partner turns his back on me? When I feel his frustration but do not know why? Is this the thing that I am scared will happen if I do not do something anything.

Post traumatic stress causes a person to relive an event. To that person the shadows and echos are real.

A car back fires and a Vietnam vet hits the deck. He responded at that moment as if he was else where. Is this where I go?

My emotions of solid fear so strong I can not control. drugs knock me out. They do not stop the fear. Its consistent the fear. Its always there when ever it happens.

Judith Herman in the book Trauma and Recovery writes “healing can not take place for the victim of trauma with out a supportive relationship”

I want to heal myself – but some how I think I need the help of those around me.  Maybe speaking directly to the fear. Maybe now that I THINK I have an idea of where it comes from I can address the fear when it happens. “K you are not going to be kicked out by B with no way home and no idea what to do next. He is not going to stop talking to you. He has been your friend for 10 years.”

Thinks I know but need to believe at that moment.

Why does growth have to cause me to shed so many tears and relive so much hurt? Maybe I should have followed some rules. I can assure you there are lots I will never break again!

2010/01/15

Protected: All that noise and now nothing

Filed under: Uncategorized — admin @ 9:59 pm

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Internships

Filed under: School,Uncategorized — admin @ 8:48 pm

So I am attempting to get some practical experience, updated experience and maybe some references so I am applying to internships.

The process is actually more stressful then applying for a job. I guess when some one rejects a job application with out speaking to you, its ok. They had a better applicant who wanted less money maybe. If some one rejects you when you are willing for work for free, it some how seems personal.

Hopefully my new found writing skills will help me get in the door.

English Exam

Filed under: School — admin @ 8:42 pm

I received 80% on my english exam!

2010/01/14

English exam

Filed under: School — admin @ 12:09 am

Done.

That is all

2010/01/13

Rules

Filed under: Life,psyco bable — admin @ 6:14 am

at some point we grow up.  Maybe you are 80 years old when you grow up or maybe you are 30. At some point we stop identifying as a child and we grow up. I thought when I got married that was it. I quickly learned that was not the case.

I wonder if the moment we grow up is the moment we realise that life has rules, we are all playing the game of life and it gets a lot easier if we just start following the rules.

My nature to break them, move them, bend them and expect every one to fall in line was a good quality in the environment I grew up in.  It does not apply to a a normal environment ( sub thought define normal). So what did the last year or two of my marriage teach me? It taught me about social contracts and following the rules. It opened my eyes to a lack of respect I have had for these social contracts and a lack of desire to play the game so to speak. I charge forward expecting that making my own rules will get me what I want.

In the end I suspect life will be a bit easier and a bit less chaotic if I just start falling in line. It feels fake and sufficating now but maybe over time it will start to feel normal.

cognitive dissents.

2010/01/12

I thrive on impossible situations

Filed under: School — admin @ 7:44 pm

So I decided rather then put my exams off further under the pretense I was going to study. I might as well just book them and take them.

So I did. Sink or swim – my English exam is tomorrow.  The next day I will be taking at 8:30 am my Admin 232 exam and then in the afternoon my Comp 200 exam.

Thats it semester will be over. I will have my comp 200 final project to complete and submit – but will have 2 clear weeks to really focus on it.

Next semester line up is:

Introduction to Java

Introduction to Visual Basic

Accounting for Managers

CMIS 311 ( the course I pushed out )

and as soon as I complete CMIS 311 – CMIS 324

The following semester is where it gets interesting

Advanced operating systems – Linux

Unix administration

Build systems

Java for the network administrator

and some course about the philosophy of the tech industry

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